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When buying IKEA Sektion cupboards for my studio, I opted for the Veddinge cupboard doorways and drawer fronts for one cause. They had been one of many least costly choices. And if you want as many as I wanted for my studio (which might be equal to a really giant kitchen), these financial savings added up fairly a bit. And whereas I didn’t need flat entrance cupboard doorways and drawer fronts in my last studio design, I knew that I may add my very own trim and nonetheless find yourself with fairly a financial savings. Plus, my plan from the start was to color my cupboards a enjoyable shade, so including trim wouldn’t be that large of a deal.
I did have a tough time deciding simply how I needed to trim them out, although. I thought-about a number of designs (a few of which you’ll see right here), and totally different choices to get that design. I assumed I had landed on the thought of utilizing Overlays (that are laser minimize designs that you just adhere to the fronts of the doorways), however it all got here right down to the one cupboard proper in the course of the mural wall that has six 5-inch-high drawers. Ultimately, I made a decision that I needed these drawers trimmed out individually, however no design I attempted would match on these brief drawer fronts.
After making an attempt each design I may consider, I lastly concluded that the one design that might match on these doorways was a easy rectangle. And if I’m going to do a easy rectangle, there’s actually no have to order Overlays and wait their three-week turnaround time after I may simply purchase some easy trim and minimize my very own trim to make rectangles.
In order that’s what I did. I had in thoughts that I’d use wooden lattice trim. The worth for wooden lattice is kind of the vary, from $1.48 per linear foot (which might have price $556.48 for the quantity I wanted) to $0.98 per linear foot (which might have price $368.48 for the quantity I wanted).
There’s additionally a small trim referred to as display, which I’ve used many instances through the years for varied initiatives. It’s $0.78 per linear foot, which might have come to $293.28. I in all probability would have bought this one had that they had sufficient in inventory. However they had been virtually bought out.
And I’m glad I stored wanting as a result of I landed in a bit that I by no means have a look at and by no means even think about — the plastic trim. It’s referred to as polystyrene, which I at all times affiliate with Styrofoam, however it is a laborious plastic. They’d the identical display trim within the plastic trim, however this price $3.48 per 8-foot piece. That’s $0.44 per linear foot.
In order that’s what I bought, and it price $163.56 for all of the trim I wanted for all three sections of cupboards within the studio.
To prep the cupboard doorways and drawer fronts for trim and paint, I wanted to sand the tremendous shiny end off of all of them. I did this utilizing my electrical sander and 100-grit sandpaper discs. I attempted 120-grit, however that didn’t minimize by means of that manufacturing facility end. (The end on IKEA Veddinge cupboard door and drawer fronts is wonderful and extremely sturdy, FYI. I’d think about they’re all like this, and I’m fairly impressed with the standard.) The 100-grit labored very well, although. I took extra of the end off than was vital on this primary cupboard door. On the next ones, I sanded simply sufficient to take away the shine, however not likely sufficient to see by means of the white paint.
After they had been all sanded, I made myself a jig to mark the place the trim would go on every door and drawer entrance. Since IKEA Veddinge doorways are 5/8-inch thick, I made the jig so with one piece ripped to 1 3/8 inch, and nailed that to a different piece ripped to 1 inch. That means, after they had been nailed collectively, the within of the larger piece was 5/8 inch to suit completely on the sting of the door or drawer entrance, and the piece that might go on high of the door would mark the 1-inch house that I needed to go away on the sting earlier than the trim.
I minimize the items to 36 inches lengthy since that was the width of the widest drawer fronts.
So after sanding every door and drawer entrance, I used my jig, positioned on the sting with the 1-inch piece on high of the door, and marked that line. After doing this on all 4 sides, I had a superbly spaced rectangle to mark the place the trim could be connected.
Earlier than really including the trim, I needed to drill holes for the cupboard {hardware}. For the drawers, I purchased these 10-inch pulls. So I folded a chunk of paper (utilizing cardstock or thick picture paper would have been preferable) and marked the width of the screw holes.
Then I used my tape measure to measure and mark the middle between the screw holes.
Earlier than marking the drawer fronts, I positioned a chunk of painters tape the place the pull would go…
After which utilizing my tape measure, I measured and marked the middle of the peak of the drawer. I did this in two locations.
After which utilizing a straight edge, I used these two marks to attract a line proper down the middle of the drawer peak.
Subsequent, I measured over from the sting and marked the center of the drawer.
With the center marked, I used the sample I had made and lined up the center marks, and marked the screw gap positions on the middle line I had drawn.
That gave me the proper spacing for the drawer pull.
Earlier than I drilled the holes on the very first drawer entrance, I double checked the marks. However as soon as I knew my sample was proper, I didn’t double examine the next drawer fronts.
After which I used to be able to drill the holes.
And voila! Completely positioned, completely spaced holes for the drawer pull.
I do know that appeared like an extended, drawn out course of, however after you have the sample marked, the remaining goes actually quick. I feel it took me about two minutes to do every drawer entrance.
As soon as the holes for the {hardware} had been drilled, I used to be prepared to connect the trim. I minimize all the trim with my miter noticed, slicing the ends at a 45-degree angle. And so they all wanted only a little bit of sanding with 220-grit sandpaper on the minimize ends earlier than assembling the frames.
I assembled the frames earlier than attaching them to the drawer fronts, and I assembled them utilizing my scorching glue gun. It solely took only a very small quantity of scorching glue to place the frames collectively.
I let the glue dry for a minute or two, after which flipped the body over and added a bead of Loctite development adhesive to the again. One factor I like about this plastic trim is that the again is definitely indented, making it excellent to make use of with development adhesive. When utilizing trim that has a flat again, the development adhesive often squishes out the edges as soon as the trim is utilized. I didn’t have that concern with this trim.
And since I had already measured and marked the strains the place the trim would go, placing the trim in place was very straightforward. There was no guess work, no measuring required, and no room for errors.
And right here’s a peek at a drawer entrance with the brand new trim and a drawer pull sitting in place.
I’m not fairly completed including the trim to the cupboard doorways, and as soon as I end that, I’ll have another step earlier than I’m prepared for priming and portray. I nonetheless wish to caulk the corners of the trim to get rid of these tiny cracks within the joints, after which I wish to caulk all the way in which round all the trim. That gained’t be a fast and simple course of since I’ve so many drawers and door fronts, however will probably be value it. These kinds of particulars actually go an extended method to taking a DIY undertaking to the subsequent stage.
In order that’s the progress thus far. My new order of IKEA cupboards is arriving in the present day, so I’ll have much more sanding and trimming to do. However I’m actually hoping I’ll be prepared for paint by this weekend!
Addicted 2 Adorning is the place I share my DIY and adorning journey as I rework and enhance the 1948 fixer higher that my husband, Matt, and I purchased in 2013. Matt has M.S. and is unable to do bodily work, so I do nearly all of the work on the home on my own. You may be taught extra about me right here.
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