Monday, June 23, 2025

The Artwork, Politics, and Pleasures of Meals

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PASADENA, California — Few issues are so great, and so splendidly political, as meals. The very act of going to a grocery retailer comprises inside it the story of globalization — from garlic grown in China to mangos from Mexico (which in flip are native to India) to peppers from Southeast Asia (which in flip are native to Mexico).

Whereas a visit to the grocery retailer is now a secular act, in Seventeenth-century Europe, accessing international meals was nonetheless a brand new idea. “Nonetheless Life with Fruit and Greens” (1625–35), a portray by Flemish artists Frans Snyders and Cornelis de Vos, is one such instance. On this wealthy, intricate work, a maid performs with a lovebird imported from the African continent. Most of the vegetables and fruit on show come not simply from the Netherlands however from all over the world — gooseberries and tomatoes from the Americas, radish from the jap Mediterranean, and garlic from Asia. It was an art work for an aspirational city class, and as such contained inside it the story of colonization.

“Nonetheless Life with Fruit and Greens” seems in All Consuming: Artwork and the Essence of Meals, on view on the Norton Simon Museum. The present is a journey by meals as imagined and depicted by European artists from 1500 to 1900, all pulled from the museum’s collections. With themes like Starvation, Extra, and Sustenance, the exhibition delves into the structural inequalities exacerbated by shifts in meals tradition and manufacturing throughout this time. “Europeans handled famine,” notes the exhibition textual content, “revolutionized their agricultural strategies and imported items from non-European international locations and colonized lands.”

Jacques Callot, three plates from Les Grandes Misères de la Guerre (The Miseries of Warfare) (1633), etchings

Take into account, as an example, Les Grandes Misères de la Guerre (The Miseries of Warfare), a triptych of panoramic etchings by French artist Jacques Callot that depict pillaging a village and a farm. The distress proven shouldn’t be battle however the violence the conflict normalized amongst underpaid and hungry troopers. “Within the Seventeenth century,” the exhibition textual content states, “plundering was thought-about a legit wartime follow, as controlling sources, particularly meals, was important to army success.”

Distinction this act of violence with “Twelve Plates from a Calendar Set” (1739–75), a group from ‘de Porceleine Bijl’ Store and Hugo or Justus Brouwer. These 12 lovely plates, made in blue-and-white porcelain modern within the 18th century, and meant to imitate Chinese language porcelain, present idyllic actions themed for every month, akin to harvesting fruit in September and supervising gardening in March. The plates, like “Nonetheless Life with Fruit and Greens,” show scenes that have been made doable by important colonization overseas.

The present carries us house to Twentieth-century California, the US’s largest food-producing state, with pictures by Manuel Álvarez Bravo and Edward Weston displayed on a single wall. On one facet are Weston’s aesthetic depictions of farming, like a beautiful black and white pepper curled up as if in a yoga pose and a Chinese language cabbage with yonic qualities. On the opposite facet are Álvarez Bravo’s portrayals of farmworkers and their households, akin to “Public Thirst (Sed pública)” (1934), the place a toddler drinks water from a fountain, and “The Crouched Ones (Los agachados)” (1934), which exhibits farmworkers taking a break in the course of the day to eat.

I do want the present dove extra deeply into the inequalities that enabled international meals tradition to start with, together with a extra direct engagement with slavery, battle and colonization. That mentioned, it’s a strong reminder that the range of the meals we’ve got entry to is gorgeous, and the way we obtained there’s significantly extra sophisticated.

Frans Snyders and Cornelis de Vos, ““Nonetheless Life with Fruit and Greens” (1625–35), oil on canvas
Manuel Álvarez Bravo, “Public Thirst (Sed pública)” (1934), gelatin silver print
Customer responses to questions on meals
‘de Porceleijne Bijl’ Store and Hugo or Justus Brouwer, “Twelve Plates from a Calendar Set” (1739–75), glazed earthenware (delftware)
Jean-Baptiste Chardin, “Nonetheless Life with Fowl” (c. 1728–30), oil on canvas

All Consuming: Artwork and the Essence of Meals continues on the Norton Simon Museum (411 West Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena, California) by August 14. The exhibition was organized by Maggie Bell, assistant curator on the museum.

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